What is a hunt without a few decent photos? When you page through your
hunting photo albums while “chewing the gut” in the old age home it will be
much more memorable if you could actually make out the face of the guy
posing with the trophy Buff/Kudu/Njala etc. We trust that these few tips
will assist you to take photos which will give statue to the animal who has
given its life to enable you to pose with it.

• Position the trophy so that there are no distracting objects such as vehicles, fences or people in the background.  Try to find a background which will provide a good contrast for you and your trophy.
  


• If possible, pose your trophy with a light background (sky or dead grass).  This focuses attention on the subject and outlines the subject better.
  


• Pose the trophy broadside, with the head upright and facing the camera.  If necessary, prop the head or hold it by the horns.  DO NOT hold it by the ears, sit on it or place it on your shoulders.
  


• The hunter should be at least an arm’s length from the trophy, and preferably behind the trophy to maximize the effect of size.
  


• Remove all visible blood.
  


• The photographer should lie on the ground, and shoot up at the subject.  This makes the trophy look as large as possible.
  


• Make sure the trophy’s tongue is not hanging out.
  


• Clear brush, grass or other obstructions from the foreground.
  


• Shadows pose problems.  Make sure the sun is shining on the front of the trophy (at the photographer’s back), instead of behind it.  Be careful not to get the photographer’s shadow in the photo.
  


• Make sure the hunter’s face it visible and not covered by the shadow of a hat.
  


• Fill the frame with your subject.  DO NOT crop heads, bodies, horns or antlers.  If the background is spectacular, you may allow some framing for it otherwise give your trophy full attention.
  


• Take several photos from different angles, using different exposures (if your equipment allows).  It is always better to have several photos to choose from on such a memorable occasion.
  


• When in doubt about lighting or shadows, use a flash.
  


• Keep in mind that it is important to proceed with skinning as soon as possible.
  

The successes of your life long wanted trophy starts at the moment you pull
the trigger. A sign of negligence, like hair slip, often shows only some time
after the trophy is mounted, than it is impossible to reverse the process.  
These few rules are not exhaustive and should be regarded as the minimum
precautions to be taken in the process of preservation of a cape.  

• Never drag the animal over the ground. Take extra care when loading, specially heavy animals.
  


• Always skin the animal as soon after death as possible. In warm weather the entrails should be removed immediately and the cape removed within an hour. In cold weather(winter) they are a few hours grace.
  


• Do not attempt to skin out the head unless you know exactly how to do it.
  


• After skinning, remove all traces of blood and dirt by washing the skin. Remove all fat and meat from the skin.
  


• Lay the skin out on a flat surface like a cement floor and salt the flesh side. Using good quality crushed salt.
  


• Make sure that all little folds in the skin, lips,ears, etc. are thoroughly salted.
  


• Don’t put the skin on a metal surface to dry.
  


• After 12-24 hours, shake of all the loose salt, lie the slain down with the hair side upwards and fold the edges to meet in the middle with the hair on the inside and place in a cool dry place. The best care for your trophy is to keep it cold or frozen.
  


• Deliver to the taxidermist promptly.

Before booking your hunt make sure that you fully understand the conditions
laid dawn by your host. By following the following tips you should end up by
paying for what you are getting.

1. Method of Hunt:   Make sure that the method of hunting offered is what you want, i.e. don’t end up with a walk and stalk hunt if you’re not fit to walk.
   


2. PH Requirements:   If you require the services of a PH make sure that he is experienced in the task, i.e. not all South African PH’s are allowed to guide big 5 hunts.  The most important determining factor in the success of your safari could be the professional hunter.
   


3. Agreement:   Insist on a formal agreement, if not available confirm what was discussed in writing and get your host to sign before you pay a deposit or depart on your hunt
   


4. Cancellation Policy:   Confirm whether the deposit is refundable should you have to cancel the booking.
   


5. Payment: Confirm the method of payment and whether a cheque or credit card is acceptable.
   


6. Conditions of Payment:   Confirm what you pay for, i.e. :
   


1. Do you pay for all game booked or only those taken.
2. Do you pay for all shots fired at game, in very dense country this is often stipulated.
3. Do you pay for game wounded and who/what determines if game is wounded, i.e. blood or the word of the tracker cum farm hand.
4. Do you pay when a representative trophy has been pointed out in a shootable position but not taken?
5. What standards are used to determine when it is a trophy?   This is of special importance to non trophy hunters.
6. If you pay by weight, what is weighed, is the head off, are legs off, is the guts out, is the skin off, etc.   The items mentioned can contribute up to 40% of the carcass weight and many a hunter has feel cheated by paying for items which he discard anyways.
7. Do you pay for Trophy skinning, dressing, general care taking and delivery to a taxidermist.   Who takes responsibility for the trophy?
   


7. Day Rates:   The following costs are normally included in the cost of day rates.
   


1. All transport during the hunt
2. Accommodation
3. All meals and soft drinks. However, quite offten self catering is also an option
4. Services of a qualified professional hunter ( when required )
5. Skinners and trackers
6. Preparation of trophies

The following costs are normally excluded in the cost of day rates i.e.

1. All air transfers. 
2. Hotel accommodation before or after the hunt.
3. Taxidermy cost, dip and ship or mounting.
4. Export cost of your trophy.
5. Tips to the staff.
6. The carcasses on trophy hunts
7. Alcoholic drinks

• Hunting Licence:  Make arrangements and obtain a hunting licence
  


• Liability   Determine your host’s liabilities.   Normally you host will protect himself against liability for any damage, losses and expenses suffered by any client as a result of sickness, quarantine, weather conditions, war, strikes, riots or any other cause outside his control, and will not accepts liability in respect of death, injury, loss or damage to person or property arising out of any act, omission or negligence.    He would request the client to waive, renounce and abandon any and all right for entitlement which the client may be entitled to under the provisions of the law of the country you are hunting in and for any loss or damage to person or property.
  


• Client Responsibility:  A well drawn up contract will also address the Clients responsibilities.   Make sure that it is fair and that you concur with it.
  


• Jurisdiction :  At the same time the contract will determine where, how and under what law disputes will be settled.  Have a close look, you do not want to ravel to Harare to settle a dispute with you host under Zimbabwe law, for instance.

Tips on What to Take Along

Quite often your hunt takes place far from the nearest town or
over a week end when shops are closed and you might have to
do without those items which you did not have with you on arrival.

The following tips of things to bring with will assist you when packing:

• Fined out if electricity is available, if bedding is required, etc.
  


• A battery operated alarm clock or cell phone
  


• Small hand held torch and LED head light with spare batteries for both.
  


• Water bottle with 1 liter capacity.
  


• Light raincoat
  


• A good hat
  


• One set of hunting clothes, khaki, jeans or camo for each day. (not black or white)
  


• A thick jacket, preferably a windbreaker as it gets cold during the winter evenings, especially in the Southern part of South Africa where it snows frequently in winter.
  


• Light strong gloves (driving gloves works well), and possibly a small scarf
  


• Well-worn and comfortable walking boots with thick socks and spare laces.
  


• Small medical kit with personal medication, some band aid, one good bandage, Lip-ice, pain killers, plenty stomach medicine, broad spectrum antibiotics, petroleum jelly/ Vaseline, eye drops, anti-histamine tablets, flue medicine, odorless sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 20
  


• A good camera/cam coder with enough film/memory sticks and remember the battery recharge equipment
  


• Rifle and cleaning equipment with oil, patches, allen key for scope mounts and strong screw drivers
  


• Ammunition, twice as much as what you need for the actual hunt, should your telescope require sighting-in you can quickly run out of ammo.
  


• Binoculars, 8x20 or a light 9x25 works well.  The 50x binoc’s are no good in bush country and are generally too big, heavy and cumbersome.
  


• Some people like to keep a diary of the daily events, so bring it along.   Remember a pencil, it is more reliable then a ballpoint.
  


• Insect repellent is advised, especially those that you can spray on your trousers to keep ticks off.
  


• Pocket knife with accessories or a “Leatherman” tool.
  


• If you need to do skinning and/or butchering, then remember your knives and sharpening equipment. Nothing beats a scalpel, when it comes to caping specially ears, lips and eye lids.
  


• Short length (5 m) of strong rope
  


• Matches or gas lighter
  


• Cartridge holder for at least 5 spare cartridges to be carried on your belt.
  


• Light weight rucksack to take some of the above with you on you daily excursions.

Should you own a number of rifles then chose one suitable for the terrain
and game you are going to hunt.

Remember the following:

1. Use enough gun. You can never over kill your quarry.
   


2. In thick stuff, a short gun is easier to carry and to handle than one with a long  barrel.
   


3. Killing is performed by the bullet not the gun, the caliber, the speed or any other derivable
   


4. Bullet weight and construction is of paramount importance and should be
   the one item that requires proper planning and consideration. Remember, the
   higher the speed the stronger bullet required. Taking your trusty 30-06 with
   180 or 200 gr. bullets to a Springbuck hunt in the Karoo, where shots are
   seldom taken under 200 meter, will be a good lesson in the force of gravity. 
   At the same time your faithful, one shot, Springbuck slayer in 270 Winchester,
   loaded with sub-minute of angel 120 gr. boat tails is going to let you down
   badly on a Eland hunt in the bush veldt. If you are uncertain ask for advice from your host or PH
   before you make up your mind on which gun and bullet combination you are
   going to take along.
   
   Use the following as general guide lines for modern day rifles and ammo.
   


1. 100 gr. Bullets are good for thin skinned game up to 50kg carcass weight i.e. Blesbuck, Impala, etc.
2. 150 gr. Bullets are good for game up to 100 kg carcass weight i.e. Hartebees, Kudu cow, etc.
3. 200 gr. Bullets are good for game up to 250 kg carcass weight i.e. Wildebeest, Kudu bulls, Zebra, Eland cow, etc.
4. 250 gr. Bullets are good for all thin skinned game that walk this palnet including Rhino, Hippo and Giraffe.
5. 300 gr. Bullets should be regarded as the minimum weight for Buffalo and Elephant
   


5. With the suggested bullet weights in mined a 30-06 or 300Win Mag and a 375 H&H mag. would cover all your needs sufficiently.
   


6. It is important to spend time on the shooting range before your hunt commences. Although you will sight your rifles prior to commencing the hunt, you must also be familiar with your rifle.
   


7. If you intend on hunting any one of the Big 5, a 375 should be the minimum caliber with which you will be permitted to hunt.

Remember, it is always better to be a little under gunned with a rifle which
you are very familiar with then being over gunned with a big bore super
duper magnum which you are afraid to shoot.